====== Stop using stainless fasteners on your Land Rover! ======

<WRAP center round tip 60%>
tl;dr: **"Stainless makes corrosion //worse// and is brittle"**
</WRAP>

===== Reason #1 - Galvanic Corrosion =====

[[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galvanic_corrosion|Wikipedia explains why]] it's a bad idea, I put this page here basically just to try and help any passers-by. [[https://www.npfasteners.com/technical/galvanic-corrosion.htm|Northern Precision]] have a good explainer and a better chart too. Ay oop.

{{ http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/gallery/tech/galvanic_corrosion.gif }}

Stainless pipe onto aluminium casting equals...
{{ http://fuddymuckers.co.uk/gallery/s/500/127_CC2/IMG_3741.JPG }}

Chart stolen from [[https://www.npfasteners.com/technical/galvanic-corrosion.htm|Northern Precision]]'s website:

^ LEAST NOBLE - ANODIC / ACTIVE (MOST LIKELY TO CORRODE) ^
^ Material ^
| Magnesium |
| Magnesium Alloys |
| Zinc |
| Beryllium |
| Aluminium 1100, 3003, 3004, 5052, 6053 |
| Cadmium Aluminium 2017, 2024, 2117 |
| Mild Steel 1018, |
| Wrought Iron |
| HSLA Steel, Cast Iron |
| Chrome Iron (active) |
| 430 Stainless (active) |
| 302, 303, 321, 347, 410, 416 Stainless Steel (active) |
| Ni-Resist 316, 317 |
| Stainless (active) |
| Carpenter 20Cb-3 Stainless (active) |
| Aluminium Bronze (CA687) |
| Hastelloy C (active) |
| Inconel 625 (active) |
| Titanium (active) |
| Lead/Tin Solder |
| Lead Tin |
| Inconel 600 (active) |
| Nickel (active) |
| 60% Ni 15% Cr (active) |
| 80% Ni 20% Cr (active) |
| Hastelloy B (active) |
| Naval Brass (CA464), Yellow Brass (CA268) |
| Red Brass (CA230), Admiralty Brass (CA443) |
| Copper (CA102) |
| Manganese Bronze (CA675), Tin Bronze (CA903, 905) |
| 410, 416 Stainless (passive) |
| Phosphor Bronze (CA521, 524) |
| Silicon Bronze (CA651, 655) |
| Nickel Silver (CA 732, 735, 745, 752, 754, 757, 765, 770, 794 |
| Cupro Nickel 90-10 |
| Cupro Nickel 80-20 |
| 430 Stainless (passive) |
| Cupro Nickel 70-30 |
| Nickel Aluminium Bronze (CA630, 632) |
| Monel 400, K500 |
| Silver Solder Nickel (passive) |
| 60% Ni 15% Cr (passive) |
| Inconel 600 (passive) |
| 80% Ni 20% Cr (passive) |
| Chrome Iron (passive) |
| 302, 303, 304, 321, 347 Stainless (passive) |
| 316, 317 Stainless (passive) |
| Carpenter 20Cb-3 |
| Stainless (passive), Incoloy 825 (passive) |
| Silver |
| Titanium (passive), Hastelloy C & C276 (passive) |
| Graphite |
| Zirconium |
| Gold |
| Platinum |
^ MOST NOBLE - CATHODIC / PASSIVE (LEAST LIKELY TO CORRODE) ^
===== Reason #2 - Hardness is not Toughness =====

Stainless fasteners are very hard but they are very brittle, so they will snap under loads rather than stretch or bend. It is positively **dangerous** to use them for towing attachments, recovery points, wheel studs, brake callipers, steering, suspension... basically //anywhere// the manufacturer of your vehicle used a high-strength steel fastener.

===== Reason #3 - Galling =====

Stainless fasteners are way more prone to [[https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galling|galling]] - binding up and self-welding - and when that happens you've now got an incredibly hard thing stuck somewhere. It's harder to drill a stainless fastener out, and if it's into a softer parent metal your drill bit is going to want to wander to the soft stuff.