The Rewire

Doing it proper like

Trying to merge the Series 3 Dash and simplicity with an EFi engine and a few niceties from later models, but without all the cruft.

Also maybe some better instruments in the works.

Here's the inside - not super spacious but works well enough:

Whole engine loom was re-done using these nice Bosch EV connectors which are way more sealed and less awful than the standard Junior Timer connectors with crappy rubber boots.

Starter wire clipped up and sleeved in an offcut of stainless braided TFE brake pipe - won't wear through THAT in a hurry and the braid should act as a heat-shield.

Lambda sensor wiring now uses Econoseal connectors wired identically to the ambulance so I can swap the wideband lambda across for tuning at the drop of a hat

In full swing here, £3 desk lamp is the best work light I've had.

Freelander earthing blocks are great - 8x 6.3 blades into one M6/M8 tab on a decent plug.

Similar multi-plugs used for the wiper & lights because I hate the bullet connectors and you can't get the multi-way blocks anyway.

Maxi-midi fuse holder now wired in - one midi fuse to feed the fusebox, one each to feed the two cooling fans. One spare… for now!

Simtek had the right connectors for the Freelander fan relay…

Which mounts in the centre of the dash behind where a clock might be, right under the Aux panel.

…still typing!

I've written this up in a separate section as I've used it on both the 127 and 109: Dual-speed dual-fan conversion.

Already written up here but I may vary it slightly depending on my ignition-switch setup.

I was picky enough to replace all the Junior Timer connectors with Bosch EV1 sealed ones:

The ECU is as fresh as the day it went in:

Using a darlington array IC to drive the 4 outputs, 2 for the fans and 2 spares.

Nige at Megasquirt-V8 is obsessive enough to have brand new EDIS-8 connectors and pins in stock, so that cuts down on a 2nd hand pig-tail spliced into the loom:

ECU Connector soldered up and made neat:

Temporary cable ties and proper labels are your friends!

Megasquirt ECU tucked up behind the dash instruments - IDC plug and ribbon cable gives low-profile D9 connector for the laptop.

EDIS module tucked in too, it's close but it goes!

Don't believe me? Let's bolt the binnacle in with the gauges to check!

Tight as a gnat's chuff, but it fits! Standard gauges may not stick around anyway, watch this space!

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Spoiler alert!

It fired up first time!

Onwards to Totally Unnecessary Bling…

Series 3 headlamp & heater fan switches Lucas 31788 / Land Rover 1H9077L:

Series 3 Light switch wiring:

This appears to be different to the manual and different if you have a station-wagon - the manual shows a variation of the switch with no Pin 2, and part number searches throw up a simple on/off toggle switch so presumably no interior lights. I've picked what looks closest to what I have.

Series 3 Gauge / interior light switch Lucas 34734 / Land Rover 555877: